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Unlike the Alfama district which was somewhat protected from the Lisbon earthquake, both Graca and Sao Vincent on high ground further east experienced much more damage. The highest hill in Lisbon's choice of hills is at Graca, and many head to the Miradoura da Graca for sublime views across to the castle and Lisbon. The tram ride, number 28 upto Graca is one of the most popular, as the tram runs through the narrow streets of Alfama.
Lisbon's main railway station - Santa Apolonia, is situated down on the waterfont. Also to the east of Alfama seek out two of Lisbon's most historic churches, the Sao Vicente de For a and Santa Engracia. Head for Feira da Ladra square between 9am to about 3pm on Saturdays and Tuesdays for the superb flea market (otherwise known as Feira da Ladra/Thieves Market) held here.
If Fado music is associated with the Alfama district of Portugal, then it's Azulejo tiles that are associated with East Lisbon and the Madre area. Head for the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, Rua da Madre de Deus 4, 1900-312 Lisboa. Tel: 351 21810 0340. (weblink right for details). This definitive museum on the history of Portuguese azulejo tiles reflects back to the 15th century and Moorish tilework influences, all the way to contemporary slants today on Portuguese azulejo decoration (note as you're moving around the Lisbon Metro the stunning contemporary azulejo tilework, especially at Olivais and Cais do Sodre Metro stations).
The Azulejo Museum is housed within the Madre de Deus church, an appropriate base as in here is 18th century tileworth depicting the life of St Anthony.
This museum is particularly superb for its exhibits on contemporary azulejo styles - there's a 40 metre panorama of tilework depicting Lisbon upstairs! Also on-site is a cafe, a shop selling azulejo tiles and pleasant garden surrounds.