Portugal Early History Braga

Braga begun as a Celtic settlement and then as Bracara Augusta was made the Romans' capital city of Gallaecia in 250 BC. Bracara remained pretty much out of touch with the rest of Portugal until in the early 16th century the Archbishop Diogo de Sousa brought Renaissance ideas to bear, modernising the city and the cathedral with a few modifications to the Romanesque portal. Consequently the town was little changed until the 19th century.

The crenallated tower behind Cafe Vianna and Cafe Astoria off the Praca da Republica is The Keep, Torre de Managem, which is all that remains of the 1738 fortified palace that was demolished in 1906.

Braga Cathedral

The focal point for historic Braga is the cathedral, signed "Se" on Rua Dom Diogo de Sousa; admission is free and it is open May-October 8.30 am-6.30 pm and Nov-Apr 8.30 am-5.30 pm; and as such it can get busy.

This is the oldest cathedral in the whole of Portugal dating from 1070 and around which Braga grew within its walled city. It is a perplexing complex of chapels and rooms of varying architectural styles including Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and most noticeably its Manueline towers and roof.

Evidence of the original Romanesque style survives in the cathedral's shape, the southern entrance and west portal in which scenes from the Reynard the Fox legend are carved. You can enter the cathedral from either the west portal or on the north side via the courtyard with its cloisters and Gothic chapels.

You can take guided tours around the cathedral which will take you upstairs to the Treasury. Tours run from 8.30-6.30 pm. The cathedral's piece-de-resistance is the King's Chapel, Capela dos Reis, in which are the tombs of Henri of Burgandy and Dona Teresa who were the parents of the first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques.

Historic Braga & Museums

Next to the cathedral is the Archbishop's Palace, Antigo Paco Episcopal that dates from the 14th century and was extended in the 17th and 18th centuries. Admission is free and it's open Mon-Fri 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-7.30 pm. It is now home to the University offices and the town's library. Features worth a look are the intricately carved and gilded ceiling in the computer room and the azulejos lining the main stairway.

As you head out west from the cathedral and the old town, the edge of the historic centre is marked by the 18th century arch, Arca da Porta Nova. This was the main gate into the city and bears the coat of arms of the archbishop Dom Jose de Braganca who commissioned it. Near here is the town's museum Museu dos Biscainhos, a Baroque aristocrat's house and garden on Rua dos Biscainhos. This has a collection of Roman artefacts and 17th-19th pottery and furnishings. The building itself has some 18th century azulejos depicting hunting scenes, painted and chestnut-panelled ceilings and deeply worn paved flags on the ground floor where carriages would once have passed through to the stables. The gardens are also of historic interest in that they originate from the eighteenth century and are largely in the style of the period.

There is a wealth of historic sights to see and too many to list here, but a couple of Braga's earliest finds are the Roman baths on Rua Dr Rocha Peixoto and the only remaining artefact known to originate from Bracara Augusta, the shrine Fonte do Idolo on Rua do Raio. Check the town's website for more information of places to go and things to see.

The distinctly modern Regional Museum Dom Diogo de Sousa on Rua Bombeiros Voluntarios, 4700-025 Braga. Tel: 351 253 273 706. Email: mdds@um.geira.pt houses a collection of archaeological finds from the Northern Portugal region but particularly from Braga dating from the Palaeolithic period to medieval times. This has been undergoing refurbishment in recent years but is due to reopen in June 2007.

Santuario do Bom Jesus, Baroque Architecture near Braga

The pinnacle of any visit to Braga has to be the stunning Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte. This is every bit as spectacular as the photos look. Set five kilometres east of central Braga just off the N103 on a forested hill, it is a popular location for Portuguese and tourists alike for the stunning sunset views across to Braga or for a picnic or snack at one of the snack bars near the church. The Baroque staircase is really what people come to see rather than the Neoclassical church at the top. This is not the original church, but one built to replace the original one that would have stood at the top of the staircase but was shaken by the 1755 earthquake and left until in ruins.

It is still the site of annual pilgrimage despite it not being associated with any particular religious event. It is said that penitent pilgrims would make their way up the tiered zig-zag stone steps on their knees, ouch! You might find walking up difficult enough although it is a nice walk through the shade of the trees. Watch out for the sometimes slippery limestone tiles though. If you don't fancy the walk up, and not many do, there is a hydraulically powered funicular that was installed at the end of the 19th century that will take you up alongside the steps (9 am-8 pm). Make sure you do at least walk down the stairway where on the lower levels are chapels at each corner of each tier that depict one of the stages of the Stations of the Cross. By the side of each is an ornamental fountain with pagan motifs, for example the God of Fire or the God of War.

As you near the top the higher levels have fountains at the centre of each landing which are themed on the "Five Senses". Originally the church was at the top of the stairway, ordered to be built by D Rodrigo de Moura Teles, which, being in ruins in the time of D. Gaspar de Braganca was replaced by the present one. It is a magnificent site and one of the greatest examples of late Baroque in this country developed by Colonel Vila-Lobos and Andre Soares.

Around the church are pretty planted gardens and several snack bars and cafes with fantastic views. There are also up-market hotels, restaurants, tennis courts and a lake. There is a large car park at the bottom of the hill or you can continue up the hill and around and park near the cafes. Buses leave from the city centre every 30 minutes (at ten and at forty minutes after the hour).

Bracalandia Amusement Park

Near Braga is Bracalandia Amusement Park which is a fun place to take the children. It has lots of different rides including a big wheel and train rides.

Although the website is in Portuguese it's worth a look for its fun cartoon graphics - link right. There a location map and price list for info.

It's open well into the evening as well as all day. Bracalandia, Rodovia, 4710-399 Braga. Tel: 351 60 32 60. Fax: 351 253 67 61 47.