Viseu is the capital of the Beira Alta region nestling between the Serra do Carumulo and Serra da Estrela mountain ranges and a countryside dotted with vineyards, orchards and pine forests. The town has a historic centre full of 16th-18th century buildings with a huge granite cathedral towering over the old town from the hill.
Today the town is important as the centre of the Dao wine-growing region and a wide variety of regional gastronomic specialities are on offer at the restaurants in the town to accompany them.
The town is thought to have been in existence since Chief of the Lusitani tribe, Viriato, took refuge in a cave there before the Romans hunted him down in 139 BC. The Romans left their mark by building a fortified camp across the river Pavia from Viseu although very little remains today. Five kilometres southeast of Viseu town centre, off the N16 road, is the Via Romana de Coimbroes - a well preserved 600 metre section of Roman road that was cut short by the path of the EN2 road. A booklet is available from the Tourist Information office about the Roman road and other historic sites in the area including Stone Age sites.
The usual tussle between Christians and Moors took place until Dom Fernando I took control of the town in 1057. The old town was enclosed in walls completed by Afonso V in 1472. Viseu then grew from its success from agricultural and trading prowess. An annual free fair was declared by Joao III in 1510 and continues today in the form the region's biggest agricultural and handicrafts fair, Feira de Sao Mateus, mid-August to mid-September. Folk music, traditional cuisine and fireworks all form part of the celebrations that take place on the Campo da Feira de Sao Mateus, the exact same spot on which it started originally.
Tourist Information Office is on Avenida Gulbenkian, 3510-055 Viseu. Tel: 351 232 420 950. Fax: 351 232 420 957. Email: infoturismo@rtdaolafoes.com.
At the southern end of Praca da Republica, locally known as O Rossio, is the late 18th century Igreja dos Terceiros, a heavily gilded baroque church with an azulejos display depicting the life of St Francis. As a contrast there is a modern azulejos display at the northern end of Rossio depicting scenes of regional life. From Rossio heading north you go through the 15th century gate, Porta do Soar de Cima, set into the town walls and then on up to Igreja da Misericordia. This church faces the cathedral and dates from 1775 with typical rococo whitewashed faade and the characteristic granite decorations with a neoclassical interior.
Heading east from this point takes you up to the domineering 13th century granite cathedral whose sombre exterior hides a splendid 16th century interior including an impressive Manueline ceiling and azulejos. The original Romanesque design is still evident in its fortress-like faade but there are some later additions including the 18th century decoration on top of the bell towers. Open 8 am-12 pm and 2-7 pm. Admission is free. In the northern transept you can climb up to the upper gallery of the Claustro Jonico, Ionian Cloister where the Museu Sacra is also based. The side rooms are well worth a peek in which are some fabulous 17th and 18th century naughty azulejos depicting scenes of naked men fighting a duel, rampaging four-headed beasts and mischievous beauties. The lower level of the cloister is one of Portugal's earliest Italian Renaissance structures. North of the cathedral along Rua Silva Gaio is the longest remaining stretch of the old town walls at the bottom of which is another town gateway Porta dos Cavaleiros.
The town was also the birthplace of Dom Duarte one of Portugal's kings and brother of Henry the Navigator and around the square named after him Praca de Dom Duarte are several old mansions with wrought-iron balconies. Just south of the square is one of the finest mansions Solar dos Condes de Prime on Rua dos Andrades, an 18th century townhouse that now houses the community internet cafe. Further south again on Rua Dom Duarte, is Casa de Dom Duarte which is said to be the king's actual birthplace with its beautiful Manueline window. It is not open to the public though. Solar dos Viscondes de Treixedo on Rua Direita and Casa da Miradouro are two other stately homes to look out for around the town.
Next to the cathedral is the rated art museum housing works of the Great Vasco, Vasco Fernandes (1480-1543), a Viseu born artist credited as being one of Portugal's seminal Renaissance painters. Works include paintings, sculptures, gold and silver work and ivory, from the Romanesque to the Baroque periods by Vasco and his peers including collaborator and rival Gaspar Vaz. Museu Grao Vasco, Paco dos Tres Escaloes, Adro da Se, 3500-195 Santa Maria, Viseu. Tel: 351 232 422 049. Fax: 351 232 421 241. Email: mgv@ipmuseus.pt. The building in which the museum is housed is the former Seminary known as the Paco dos Tres Escaloes. This is connected to the Cathedral and began construction the end of the 16th century.
Museu Tesouro de Arte Sacra, Catedral de Viseu, 3500 Santa Maria Viseu. A collection of religious art and artefacts. Open: 9 am-12 pm and 2-5 pm. Closed Saturday mornings and holidays.
Museu de Silgueiros, Calada Albertina Moreira, 2, 3500 - 541 Viseu. An eclectic collection of bits and bobs including gloves, parasols, umbrellas, handkerchiefs, buttons, displays on dressmaking and traditional children s games. Tel: 351 351 232 952 001. Fax: 351 232 952 003. Email: info@assops.pt. Open daily 9 am-12 pm and 2-5 pm.
In nearby Torredeita (12 kilometres west of Viseu) is the Eco-Museu de Torredeita. This is part of an initiative to benefit the community by providing a range of resources including modern secondary schools and nurseries. The museum is housed in an old oil producing plant dating from 1837 and details different aspects of the rural culture of the area with displays on agricultural history and the products that have been derived from the land, with displays of the old carts that used to be drawn by oxen as well as stills used in aguardente making (a Portuguese brandy). On the complex there is also a planetarium open to the public but specifically aimed at yournger children to pique their interest in science. The museum is at Fundao Joaquim dos Santos, Escola Profissional de Torredeita, 3511-903 Torredeita Viseu. Tel: 351 232 990 200 (ext.240). Fax 351 232 990 202. Email: info@ep-torredeita.rcts.pt. Open Tues-Sat 9 am-6 pm. Book in advance on weekends.
The Campo do Viriato is a leafy area to walk to the northwest of the town. It is said to be the site of a Roman military camp and contains some relics in the shape of some earth walls in the octagonal shaped trenches. There is a statue of the Lusitanian hero Viratus here too.
Parque do Fontelo is a prize-winning wooded area of public space beyond the Portal do Fontelo. The 16th century Bishop s palace here is now home to the Solar do Dao, a regional wine tasting bar, as well as former Renaissance gardens, swimming pools, a campsite, tennis courts, football pitches, a gym pavilion and a jogging circuit.
Golfe Montebelo was the first golf course to be built in the Central Portugal region. It is in a stunning setting with the Serra da Estrela and Serra do Caramulo for views.
The 18 hole, 72 par course is divided into two 9 hole courses: the Caramulo course (the first nine holes) and the Estrela Course (the second nine holes).
Golfe Montebelo, Farminhao, 510-643 Viseu. Tel: 351 232 856 464. Fax: 351 232 856 401. Email: golfemontebelo@visabeiraturismo.pt