North Portugal Tourism Guide - Alcobaca

Mosteiro de Santa Maria, Alcobaca

Mosteiro de Santa Maria is really what people come to Alcobaca to see. It is a 12th century Cistercian monastery and has been included as a World Heritage Site for its size and the purity of its architectural style. It truly is a masterpiece of Cistercian Gothic art. The outside is deceptive in that it has been remodelled in the 17th and 18th centuries with a typically fussy Baroque style, only the main doorway and rose window remained unchanged. However, inside you may well have to steady yourself on the simple gothic walls as you gaze up in wonder at the high vaulted ceilings. The nave in particular is breathtaking being 106 metres long and only 23 metres wide.

The monastery was founded in 1153 by Dom Afonso Henriques to honour a vow he'd made to St Bernard after the capture of Santarem from the Moors in 1147. Building started in 1148 and it was 40 years before the Cistercian monks charged with the job could move in. The monastery's estate had become one of the richest and most powerful in the country in that time and in the 13th century the monks undertook some further extensions financed from rents they had accrued. However, as with all money it began to corrupt and the monks' growing decadence was well recorded in the 18th century by travellers like William Beckford who was shocked at the "perpetual gormandising ..... of the fat waddling monks and sleek friars with wanton eyes" - frightening. By this time their order's days were numbered and it was dissolved in 1834.

In the south and north transepts are the two intricately carved 14th century tombs which commemorate the tragic love story of Dom Pedro and his mistress. (Check the link right for the story). Despite the best efforts of marauding French troops who damaged them looking for booty, you can still the extraordinary detail of the scenes from the life of Christ.

You can imagine the bustling work going on the grand kitchen to feed the monks, hilariously described by Beckford as "the most distinguished temple of gluttony in all Europe". It was greatly altered in the 18th century. Check out the ingenious facility of a channel that was built into the kitchen so that a tributary of the Rio Alcoa could provide a constant source of fish to the monastery. Next door is the vaulted refectory where the monks ate in silence while the bible was read to them. They would enter through a narrow door and those that could not fit through had to fast until they were thin enough - it obviously didn't work for all of them!

Alcobaca Town and Hotels

The restaurants and hotels in Alcobaca are all near the monastery as is the Tourist Information office which is opposite the monastery on Praca 25 de Abril, 2460 Alcobaca. Tel: 351 262 582 377. Open Jun-Sept 10 am-1 pm and 3-7 pm; Oct-May 10 am-1 pm and 3-6 pm. You can get free 15 minutes worth of internet.

The nearest train station to Alcobaca is 5 kilometres away in Valado dos Frades. It connects to Alcobaca by regular bus services. The bus station is five minutes walk from the town centre across the bridge towards the abbey gardens. Frequent connections go to Nazare on the coast, Caldas da Rainha, Batalha and Leiria. Buses also run daily to Lisbon's Arco do Cego terminal which takes about two hours.

Alcobaca Museums

Alcobaca is home to the National Wine Museum, Museu Nacional do Vinho, Rua de Leiria, Olival Fechado, 2460-059 Alcobaca Tel: 262 582 222. Fax: 262 582 222. Email: museu@ivv.min-agricultura.pt. Open 9 am-12:30 pm and 2-5.30 pm. Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays. This is 1.2 kilometres east of Alcobaca and is in an old adega (winery). Not only can you find out all about the history of wine-making but you can sample and buy it if any tickle your fancy.

The oldest earthenware factory in Alcobaca, Bernarda, established in 1875 also has a museum for you to find out all about glazed earthenware that is characteristic of the region's local produce. It's not all earthy ceramics though, over 100 pieces mainly belonging to the family are on display from traditional blue and white pieces up to the beautiful multicoloured contemporary designs. Museu Raul da Bernarda, Ponte D. Elias, Apartado 39, 2461-601 Alcobaca. Tel: 351 262 590 600. Admission is free and it is open Mon-Fri 10 am-1 pm and 3-7 pm.