Santarem is the capital of the Ribatejo region of Portugal. It has had an important role in Portugal's early history but is today more famous for its festivals and bullfighting.
Santarem sits up high on a plateau looking over the Ribatejo agricultural plains and Rio Tejo river valley commanding some fabulous views over the region. Attractions include several churches, monasteries and convents, a museum and the viewpoint of Portas do Sol. Today this whitewashed, terracotta tiled city houses a large student population which means there's a choice of good value cafes and restaurants, many around the Rua Cepelo e Ivens and Rua Dr Jaime Figueiredo behind the market. Santarem is a good base from which to explore the Ribatejo wine region.
Santarem became and important administrative centre as part of the Roman province of Lusitania under Julius Caesar. When the Moors occupied the area Santarem was considered impregnable that is until Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, captured it in 1147. Throughout the 4th and 15th centuries the royal parliament was convened here. The Moorish citadel is today marked by a formal garden popular as a viewpoint known as Portas do Sol.
The city was one of the most important in mediaeval Portugal and contained several monasteries and a royal palace that is unfortunately no longer present but was frequently visited by Portuguese royalty throughout the 13th-15th centuries. However, there are still several gothic buildings still standing for which Santarem is also known as the "Capital of the Portuguese Gothic".
Praca Sa da Bandeira at the heart of the old town features the Baroque faade of Igreja do Seminario also known as Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao. Open Weds-Sun 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm. This is a 17th century Jesuit seminary church built on the side of the former royal palace. Today this serves as the city's cathedral. Inside is a typically elaborate baroque painted ceiling, carvings and gilded altars. From here Rua Serpa Pinto or Rua Capel e Ivens lead to the Portas do Sol and is about a fifteen minutes' walk. This is a good route to take in the majority of the other religious buildings.
Igreja de Marvila dates from the 12th century but has had a series of 16th century additions including beautiful azulejos, the intricately carved Manueline doorway and a stone pulpit comprising eleven miniature Corinthian columns. Open Weds-Sun 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm.
Arguably the architectural highlight of Santarem is the early 15th century Igreja de Graca. Open Weds-Sun 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm. This has a delicately carved facade with a multi-layered arch. The fantastic rose window dominates the church and you can see the influence of the vertical decorations of the facade at Batalha in the overlapping blind arcases above the portal. Inside are the tombs of Pedro Alvares Cabral - the discoverer of Brazil in 1500 who lived in Santarem - and the rather more elaborate one of Pedro de Menezes the first Governor of Ceuta who died in 1437.
The 12th century Igreja de Sao Joao de Alporao is now home to a small collection that makes up the city's archaeological museum. Open Tues-Sun 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm. The building itself is of interest being a good example of the transitional style between Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles. In particular the Romanesque main portal contrasts with the early gothic main chapel and vaulting. There are also Moorish influences seen in the arches of the main chapel. Don't miss the flamboyant gothic tomb of Duarte de Meneses, who died rather gruesomely in a battle against the Moors in 1464. Apparently all that was left of him for burial was a tooth!
Opposite the museum is the 15th century bell tower, Torre das Cabacas. This now houses the unusual Nucleo Museologico do Tempo, Museum of Time. Weather vanes, sundials, a revolving upturned pyramid and an intricate 19th century clock mechanism in a glass case are some of its exhibits. You can get good views from the top. Open 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm.
Santarem hosts the National Agricultural Fair, Feira Nacional da Agricultura first week in June. This includes horse races, bullfights and night-time street bull running as well as lots of children's events. It takes place two kilometres west of the town centre and lasts for ten days
The other big festival in Santarem is the National Gastronomic Festival at the end of October. This is held over a fortnight at the Casa do Campino and gives you the chance to eat as much traditional Portuguese cuisine as you can possibly manage. Stalls and restaurants get involved resenting the finest cuisine from eighteen different regions.
Accommodation can get pretty scarce during festival time so it's worth booking well in advance.
The Tourist Information office is on Rua Capelo Ivens, 66, 2000-039 Santarem. Tel: 351 243 304 479. Fax: 351 243 304 481. Email: pturismo.santarem@mail.telepac.pt
The Ribatejo region of Portugal is also renowned for both its red and white wine. Santarem is a good base from which to explore the wine trade and is itself one of the five denominations for Ribatejo wine including Almeirim, Cartaxo, Chamusca and Coruche. See our Cartaxo page for more details.