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The Tras-os-Montes region is the north eastern part of Portugal where the northern part of the region is known as the Terra Fria (cold land) due to its harsh winters where the extremes in winters and summers have led to the local quip to describe the climate "nine months of winter and three months of hell". The southern part of the region is known as Terra Quente (hot land) is much more Mediterranean in climate. It is one of the least well-known areas in Portugal and retains much of Portugal's traditions and charm. It is a beautiful part of the world with stunning mountains of the Montesinho Natural Park in the north and the lower hills dotted with regular rows of almond and olive trees that colour the landscape with their blossom in March and April.
Chaves actually means keys, but it is as a gateway into the country that it's been treated over the centuries. As a consequence Chaves was subjected to attack from Romans, Suevi, Visigoths, Moors, French and Spanish. These days it's a much calmer place more often renowned for its hot thermal spas. As you'd expect from a town with such a long history there are several historic monuments for the tourist to visit - most incredibly the sixteen arch Roman bridge that crosses the River Tamega and is still unbelievably in use! The towns in this region are smaller, traditional places with strong traditions. They are well placed for easy access to the Parque Nacional da Peneda-Geres and the countryside around for walking, hiking, cycling and watersports on the rivers in the area.
Ponte Romana is the incredible Roman bridge built in 104 AD that still takes traffic into Chaves itself. Its sixteen arches cross the River Tamega and in the middle are two engraved Roman milestones.
The town has an atmospheric medieval centre with a 14th century castle keep, Torre de Menagem, that houses a collection of military paraphernalia as the Museu Militar. Admission to the Museu da Regiao Flaviense, Praca de Luis Camoes, open Tue-Fri 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm which is the regional museum exhibiting various archaeological and ethnographic displays includes admission to the Museu Militar. There are two fortresses in the old town, Forte de Sao Francisco and Forte de Sao Neutel. Forte de Sao Francisco completed in 1648 is the more impressive of the two is now a hotel. Forte de Sao Neutel opens in the summer for occasional concerts and lies 1.2 kilometres northeast from the centre. There are also two churches of note. Seventeenth century Igreja da Misericordia on Praca de Luis Camoes with its eye-catching porch and columns and 18th century azulejos inside and the Romanesque Igreja Matriz that received some 16th century remodelling.
There are plenty of bars and cafes in the Termas Park serving local specialities including smoked Chaves ham, local sausages and local red wine.
In the nearby village of Boticas wine is matured in a slightly odd way. Wine of the dead (vinho dos mortos) as it s called came about when in 1809 locals hid their wine from the French invaders by burying it. Once the coast was clear they dug it back up to find the rather rough red wine had improved. This practice is still followed to this day and wine is buried for up to a year in people s cellars.
Auto-Viacondo Tamega Buses connect Chaves to Braganca, Vila Real, Montalegre and Mirandela. Rodanorte buses run services to Braga and Vila Real from their office on Rua da Familia de Camoes. As Chaves is only 12 kilometres from Spain buses marked Fronteira regularly make the journey from Mondays to Fridays. There is plenty of parking in the streets around Forte de Sao Francisco.
The Tourist Information office is on Terreiro do Cavalaria (Jun-Sept Mon-Sat 9.30 am-12.30 pm and 2.30-6 pm; Oct-May Mon-Sat 9 am-12.30 pm and 2-5.30 pm. Tel: 351 276 340 661. They have a leaflet detailing routes to local Palaeolithic and Roman sites in the area.
Chaves has been known as a spa town since the Romans. The warm waters are meant to offer relief for those suffering from rheumatism, liver complaints and high blood pressure. Today Balneario das Caldas de Chaves is a privately run concern (on Largo das Caldas. Tel: 351 332 445) that only offers casual visitors a drink of the warm odd tasting waters unless you book in for one or two day treatment.
The Regional Tourism website for Alto Tamega and Barroso has all sorts of information on the region as well as some tours including Chaves, Montalegre, Boticas, Ribeira de Pena, Valpacos and Vila Poucar de Aguir.
The Regional Tourism office is in Chaves at: Avenida Tenente Valadim, 39-1 dt, 5400-588 Chaves. Tel: 351 276 340 660/1/2/3/4. Fax: 351 276 321 419. Email: rturismoatb@mail.telepac.pt
The area lends itself to all sorts of outdoor activities such as walking, climbing, horse-riding and watersports. Check the link right for more on outdoor activities in North Portugal.
The area lends itself to all sorts of outdoor activities such as walking, climbing, horse-riding and watersports. Check the link right for more on outdoor activities in North Portugal.
Javasport Tel: 351 252 850621/3. FAX: 351 252 850622 R. Padre Domingos Maia, 189, 4780-211 Santo Tirso
NortAventure Largo de S Roque, Madalena, 5400-504 Chaves. Tel: 351 276 324282. Fax: 352 276 331872. Email: mail@nortaventura.com
Rotas de Terra, Alvara: 46/2003, Apartado 169, 5401-909 Chaves. Tel: 351 914876923 - 934205548 - 965161839. E-mail: rotasdaterra@gmail.com
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